The Material Renaissance

The Boston Consulting Group (BCG) and Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) estimate that

overall apparel consumption will rise by 63%, from 62 million tons today to 102 million tons

in 2030. With our planet’s resources being severely pushed to their limit and a third of

millennials strongly in favour in buying from companies who are mindful of their social

responsibilities, adapting towards sustainable practice is no longer “just” a value-adding

activity. Sustainable practice is essential in ensuring long term competitive advantage.

The GFA and BCG state there is a €160 billion- per-year upside to the world economy

which can be achieved through 1) treating workers fairly 2) making progress on a range of

issues throughout the value chain and 3) a more efficient use of scarce resources, thus

calling for attention on sustainable materials. By eliminating wasteful practices and

minimising water, chemical, and energy consumption in textile production, there is a

positive impact on the triple bottom line, creative output, and a growing response in

consumer loyalty.

While upgrading materials is only one element towards sustainable fashion, it is a key

factor to a holistic approach. To achieve a sustainable future, Greenpeace calls on both

producers and consumers to embrace “true materialism” – “a switch from an idea of a

consumer society where materials matter little, to a truly material society, where materials

– and the world they rely on – are cherished.”

The dominance of cotton and polyester fibres in today’s market is unsustainable, where

together they compose over 80% of the world’s apparel output. This absence of textile

diversity has led to excessive water consumption, pollution, loss of biodiversity and an

over-dependency on oil. Fabrics which offer modern alternatives play part in creating a

better future: A future which manages our resources wisely as well as cost-effectively. The

future lies in taking a holistic approach, where sustainable materials play an important role

in the whole fashion system, which needs to undergo widespread improvement to reach

long term sustainability.

One pioneer championing this “Material Renaissance” is The Sustainable Angle, founded

by Nina Marenzi and counts London College of Fashion Amanda Johnston and

Model Arizona Muse to their advisory board. The UK-based not-for-profit organisation

initiates and supports projects which minimise the overall environmental impact of the

fashion industry and the wider society.

The organisation’s chief project is the annual Future Fabrics Expo, which this past month

saw its 7th year. The Expo focuses on the fashion industry and how its dangerous

environmental impacts can be reduced through innovation in textiles, as well as novel

ideas to transform the fashion system and design practice. Here innovative and

commercially viable fibres and fabrics that embody a range of sustainable principles are

showcased. The intention is to inspire and educate designers and leading fashion brands

about the latest developments in sustainable fabrics.

The expo provides an assortment of sustainable alternatives to more conventional fabrics

which currently dominate the market. Hence, fashion companies are inspired to begin

diversifying their fabric base and lower their environmental impact at the same time. Only

one example featured at the recent Future Fabric Expo in London was the material made

from fruit waste - derived from orange, apple, grape skins, and pineapple leaves. Orange

Fiber, which is made from by-products from the citrus juice industry, has already been

selected as one of the winners in the 2016 H&M Global Change Award and has

successfully collaborated with fashion house Salvatore Ferragamo. Orange Fiber fabrics

are produced from a silk-like cellulose, blended with silk, cotton and elastane, giving it a

luxurious quality.

With fabrics often being the first step in a designer’s creative journey, understanding the

material renaissance can be a good starting point in the quest to promote a more

conscious and responsible approach to the creation of fashion products. The movement

towards a fully sustainable future is well under way, inviting exciting opportunities bridging

together science and art, technology and fashion, beauty and well-being!

2018 Calls for: RADICAL CHANGES

This year has brought us 3 significant reports that are challenging and shaping not just the fashion industry but all global outlook on future and this planet:

The question of committing to sustainability is no longer a question of if, but of how. It no longer makes business sense to ignore the sustainable opportunity and carry on with “business as usual”. The Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) and the The Boston Consulting Group (BCG) project that if we stick to the status quo, by 2030, fashion brands will see a decline in EBIT margins of more than 3 percentage points. On the other hand, the GFA and BCG predict a €160 billion- per-year upside for the world economy that can be realised due to 1) increased efficiency and diligent use of scarce resources, 2) by treating workers fairly, and by 3) addressing issues up and down the value chain. However, in order to bring about real change, we must go beyond campaigns driven by single entities: Individual fashion brands cannot alone drive major change. One of the key outcomes of the most recent Pulse report highlights the power of collaboration in shifting towards a sustainable future. We must build an ecosystem which encourages all parts of the industry to collaborate in tackling these major issues and to promote change in order to in the future collectively reap the opportunities ahead. We too believe it is through collaboration where promising ideas emerge and where companies can pilot programs and subsequently scale them up to commercial viability. Also, a collective approach would drive down costs and deliver industry wide results. Together with NGOs, industry associations, and academic leaders, we see a future of substantial cross-industry and cross-functional collaboration to propel change in a globally harmonised approach.

This is strongly supported by recently launched new Ellen MacArthur Circular Economy report re-designing fashion’s future by creating new textile economy. Looking beyond the current >>>take, make and dispose<<< linear model shifting to more holistic circular models across fashion supply chain that are restorative and regenerative by design. The much necessary paradigm relies on system-wide innovation and radical collaboration with science and technology to redefine products, manufacturing process and service  while minimising impact.

GFA and BCG project that the overall apparel consumption will rise by 63%, from 62 million tons today to 102 million tons in 2030, a fact in itself presenting outstanding challenges. Although, skeptical to various suggestions in the Pulse Report, Greenpeace also recognises the importance of collaboration in moving forward. Platforms must be built in order to facilitate the exchange of knowledge and cooperation between all sizes and types of companies. Platforms must also involve outside organisations and academics reflecting a more holistic approach. Additionally, Greenpeace provides further recommendations. Firstly, Greenpeace emphasises the need for innovative design addressing longer life and promoting extended use of clothing as an important intervention to help slow down the material flow. A key solution in reducing waste is making higher quality clothes which are more durable and repairable, and  by creating services to repair and refurbish, and encourage more re-use. We must shift away from the trend for expiring products and decreased quality by designing for long life. This encourages transformative business models to enable a rise of “true materialism”: 

                “a switch from an idea of a consumer society where materials matter little, to a truly material society, where materials – and the world they rely on – are cherished.”

“We have no alternative but to invest in young talent”

In a climate of political uncertainty, unleashing yet unknown consequences on the local UK fashion industry, it is now more than ever essential in securing and supporting our young talent. In the article, Christopher Nieper, managing director of Derbyshire manufacturer David Nieper, explains how investing in future talent is the only way in sustaining long term growth and we could not agree more. “People make [a] business a success” which is why when addressing the future of fashion, education and opportunity for the next generation must be a priority. This is our driving force and why we are so passionate in contributing to fashion education programs such as speaking at the CFDA Education summit or mentoring up-and coming-designers for the CFDA+ Lexus Fashion Initiative. 

Collaboration: The Key to the Future of Fashion

Having helped initiate the Collaborative Unit for Master’s students at LCF, we strongly agree that collaboration is the key ingredient in a successful future for fashion. We too see the potential of businesses acting as bridges connecting a variety of stakeholders together, where even reflected on the runway, collaborations are on the rise (e.g VETEMENTS x Hilfiger, Louis Vuitton X Supreme...). The merging of minds, resources and capabilities can generate unexpected results, which is why we place great importance for students in actively participating within the industry. Notably at LCF, students have the opportunity to take part in the Kering Project “Empowering Imagination”, in order to enhance sustainability. Through a co-creational curriculum the project aims to inspire a new breed of fashion graduate who can implement sustainable practices and innovation to champion change. 

What fashion can learn from other industries

Fashion has been notoriously infamous for the intensified presence of gatekeepers, separating those in and out of the industry. It has been humorously likened to a bubble full of peacocks and pigeons, presenting a dreamlike alternative to the everyday. However, due to the swift democratisation of fashion through social media and immediate accessibility from screen to the catwalk, it has seeped into the lives of all. In moving forward, fashion must continue to push and adapt to disruptive change and therefore it can no longer afford to look within. While national boarders may be tightening, it is imperative to develop increased inter-industry links in order to react to the realities of the digital age. “Travel, technology, finance, music, hospitality and health – all are battling their own challenges and coming up with their own, unique solutions” and by looking elsewhere, fashion can learn from these other industries’ individual tactics. This requires an open minded approach and platforms for linking various industry minds together. Yes, we can learn from each other and move forward together. 

Education: An investment in a creative future

The UK’s fashion industry relies upon attracting creative minds from around the globe, but the right to live, study or work locally remains uncertain. This is a challenge especially for the world renowned UK fashion education institutions which have evolved into incubators for global creative talent. Investing and supporting emerging talent is a primary solution in tackling ominous threats, which is why we take pride in working closely with students and invest in their potential. For example, we have organised an immersive study tour for selected London College of Fashion (LCF) Master’s students to attend the the world renowned Hyères Fashion and Photography festival. Here students were given the opportunity to collaborate with leading industry players to converse on the future direction of fashion. We feel connecting students with prominent members within the industry brings an advantageous bilateral relationship. 

Innovative Fabrics pushing Industry Forward

Exciting innovations in fabric and textiles are pushing forward the fashion industry and conventional design, through adapting to issues of sustainability and efficiency. Lab-grown leather is one of many exciting examples which captures the l’air du temps catering to consumer demand who still wants to buy leather goods but is increasingly uncomfortable with the process of retrieving animal skins, as traditional leather production contributes to climate change, land devastation, pollution and water contamination. When paired with classic design, revolutionary textile boosts fashion today into the modern age. With digital merging with biology, textile innovation is a progression we are very excited about! 

SUSTAINABILITY and TECH: The future of trend prediction will come from tech innovators, not fashion designers

Technology should be married to fashion in moving innovation, function and design forward. We too agree that technology should be embraced and not avoided as enhancements in technology is indeed “unleashing creativity—not stifling it”. With fashion at times a juxtaposition, where we see on one hand, innovation and on the other tradition, we as an industry cannot afford to be left behind for the sake of emerging into the unknown. While the emotional cries of “technology will be used to erase heritage!!”, prevail especially within luxury, let us remember that technology should compliment efficiency and welcome new innovation and creativity. Much like Iris Van Herpen presenting an exceptional collection on the Haute Couture catwalk, technology and craftsmanship can walk hand in hand producing greatness.

https://qz.com/1061405/the-future-of-trend-prediction-will-come-from-tech-innovators-not-fashion-designers/

SCIP: BEYOND FASHION

The project encouraged cross-disciplinary and cross-college collaboration bringing together industry and education. Students from three UAL colleges; Central St Martins, London College of Fashion and London College of Communication worked together to study and interrogate existing and future fashion systems, mapping out local and global consciousness, impacts and consumer habits around fashion. 

The project represented the creative journey of the group, united in a unique extra- curricular collaborative venture, to explore fashion, and its connected industries through a sustainable lens. With the support of external partners, Impact Hub Westminster and The Lissome, students proactively engaged in an immersive journey while industry experts too were invited to explore how fashion can act as a powerful tool to tackle social, environmental, economic, and ethical issues. Featured were a series of installations and interactive activities which questioned and explored both current and preferred systems, a result of curated activism to create thought-provoking responses. 

Outcomes allowed students to engage with high profile industry partners and organisations with global outreach in order to successfully highlight the addressed topics of: sustainable approaches, future fashion solutions, social responsibility, conscious luxury, technology and digital enhancing tools, ethical fashion brand building, intelligent fashion marketing strategies, mindful & holistic consumerism and local & global fashion futures

The Beyond Fashion exhibition at London College of Fashion successfully reached far beyond the fashion community:

At the exhibition opening Richard Sant (Head of Careers and Employability University of the Arts London) said; “The exhibition looked great and we received such positive feedback from the visitors. Not just UAL staff and students but general public who was drawn in by the exciting display.”

EDUCATION: Gucci and Polimoda to Launch Joint Masters in Retail Management

Fashion is operating in an age of disruption on all fronts, most notably linked to challenges of sustainability and technology, both equally transforming fashion’s operating environment and consumer behaviour. In these uncharted waters, we continue to emphasise the importance of organisations collaborating with students (also the new generation) in fostering solutions. After slowly reacting, we are thrilled to finally see house hold brands taking charge and realising the importance of investing in students. It’s a brilliant idea that Gucci has partnered with Polimoda launching a 9 month Master's course in Retail Management. This partnership marries together corporate expertise with fresh student minds, leading to the potential of innovative solutions. 

Connecting students with experts is a relationship we find essential, which is why for example we linked LCF Master’s Students with representatives from Floriane de Saint Pierre and the CFDA to brainstorm solutions in addressing the future of fashion.

https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-bites/gucci-and-polimoda-to-launch-jointmasters